restringing tips and setup ideas

[r_chino18]

for locking tuners, no wraps. just pull the string taut through the post, lock it, tune up. then start stretching/retuning/stretching

Most locking tuners, ganyan ang sinasabi. 

Pero I've learned na mas ok pa rin if makakaikot yung string sa post at least once. Mas may room for detuning saka hindi laging may stress dun sa breakpoint ng string sa post.

Sa experience ko kasi, laging napuputulan ng string sa post ng locking tuners pag luluwagan yung string then hihigpitan ulit (to pitch).

[nathanmanansala]

Most locking tuners, ganyan ang sinasabi. 

Pero I've learned na mas ok pa rin if makakaikot yung string sa post at least once. Mas may room for detuning saka hindi laging may stress dun sa breakpoint ng string sa post.

Sa experience ko kasi, laging napuputulan ng string sa post ng locking tuners pag luluwagan yung string then hihigpitan ulit (to pitch).

ah onga. pag madalas ka mag detune/slacken ng strings, parang wire lang yun na bine-bend mo at the same spot repeatedly. dun din mabilis maputol.

[cayle]

Yep. Back when I still had my RG with Sperzel tuners, At least may 1/2 to 1 turn around the post. Allowance lang for tuning.

[KelT]

nice tips, thanks for this 

[dirtybluesplayer]

Topic Related: What should be put in the nut after/before restringing? Graphite ba talaga? Where to buy? What type and brand? Alot of people recommend it. TIA

[jepbueno]

Mga sirs, ang problem ko hindi sa restringing pero sa setup siguro. Hindi rin ako sure na problem nga ito kasi hindi naman ako nagkakaproblema sa pagtugtog ng maayos at hindi rin ito nahahalata ng mga tao habang nag-tune ng gitara ko or pag may nakigamit. Hindi rin naman umikli ang life ng strings (madaling maputol).

Anyways ito yung situation. I have a greco LP, and siyempre yung strings go through the tailpiece, then sa bridge/saddles, to the nut, and finally sa tuners. Ang napapansin ko is yung strings sa place between the saddles and the tailpiece, pumapatong sila sa edge ng bridge (na hindi meant to be pagpatungan sa pagkakaalam ko). And yung strings also ay sumasayad sa upper part ng butas ng tailpiece.

Ang napapansin kong consequence is masyadong low ang action. Sabi ng iba baka daw magkaproblema sa intonation. So far, averagely intonated naman, and natotono ko naman. Adjusting the height of the tailpiece and the bridge is not enough sa case ko.

I've texted sir micsis noon, nagsuggest siya na gawin kong warp-around sa tailpiece. Natry ko pero hindi ko gusto ang feel at hitsura. Any suggestion guys? TIA

[walanakamingyelo]

I've heard from other forums that petroleum jelly does the trick like big bend's. i use that method and it seems nice for me. whatchathink?

[r_chino18]

Mga sirs, ang problem ko hindi sa restringing pero sa setup siguro. Hindi rin ako sure na problem nga ito kasi hindi naman ako nagkakaproblema sa pagtugtog ng maayos at hindi rin ito nahahalata ng mga tao habang nag-tune ng gitara ko or pag may nakigamit. Hindi rin naman umikli ang life ng strings (madaling maputol).

Anyways ito yung situation. I have a greco LP, and siyempre yung strings go through the tailpiece, then sa bridge/saddles, to the nut, and finally sa tuners. Ang napapansin ko is yung strings sa place between the saddles and the tailpiece, pumapatong sila sa edge ng bridge (na hindi meant to be pagpatungan sa pagkakaalam ko).

True. If ayaw mo na wraparound, adjust mo yung dalawang post ng tailpiece. Iraise mo konti yung tailpiece, just enough para hindi tumama yung strings dun sa corner ng bridge.

And yung strings also ay sumasayad sa upper part ng butas ng tailpiece.

Normal lang ito.

Ang napapansin kong consequence is masyadong low ang action. Sabi ng iba baka daw magkaproblema sa intonation. So far, averagely intonated naman, and natotono ko naman. Adjusting the height of the tailpiece and the bridge is not enough sa case ko.

I've texted sir micsis noon, nagsuggest siya na gawin kong warp-around sa tailpiece. Natry ko pero hindi ko gusto ang feel at hitsura. Any suggestion guys? TIA

Kung action, sa height ng bridge yan magiging pinaka dependent. Regardless sa height ng tailpiece, yung bridge at saddles mismo ang magcocontrol sa action.

[gnarly]

check out bill baker's method at youtube.com. I find it really effective.

[jepbueno]

True. If ayaw mo na wraparound, adjust mo yung dalawang post ng tailpiece. Iraise mo konti yung tailpiece, just enough para hindi tumama yung strings dun sa corner ng bridge.

Normal lang ito.

Kung action, sa height ng bridge yan magiging pinaka dependent. Regardless sa height ng tailpiece, yung bridge at saddles mismo ang magcocontrol sa action.

Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.

I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.

I'll try to post pictures this week para mas malinaw ang usapan, hehe. I'm also considering na ipa-setup to sa isa sa mga luthiers natin pag nagkaroon ng time, never ko pa kasi ito nadala sa luthier/tech.

[r_chino18]

Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.

I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.

I'll try to post pictures this week para mas malinaw ang usapan, hehe. I'm also considering na ipa-setup to sa isa sa mga luthiers natin pag nagkaroon ng time, never ko pa kasi ito nadala sa luthier/tech.

or get new saddles for the bridge, para mas mataas.. baka mababa na yung current saddles niya kaya sabit na talaga kahit anong height ng tailpiece..

[jellogz]

Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.

I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.

I'll try to post pictures this week para mas malinaw ang usapan, hehe. I'm also considering na ipa-setup to sa isa sa mga luthiers natin pag nagkaroon ng time, never ko pa kasi ito nadala sa luthier/tech.

Anong klaseng bridge meron ka bro? Sumasayad din strings ko dati pero not on the bridge, kundi dun sa screws ng saddles, ginawa na lang ni Micsis is binaliktad nya yung bridge where the screws heads are located dun na sa side ng bridge pups instead na dun sa side ng tailpiece, and yep, patingin ng pechurs

[jepbueno]

Anong klaseng bridge meron ka bro? Sumasayad din strings ko dati pero not on the bridge, kundi dun sa screws ng saddles, ginawa na lang ni Micsis is binaliktad nya yung bridge where the screws heads are located dun na sa side ng bridge pups instead na dun sa side ng tailpiece, and yep, patingin ng pechurs

Pre, Tune-o-matic bridge yata tawag sa bridge ko, stock lang sa gitara ko. Pero not sure kung may pagkakaiba siya sa ibang TOM bridge na US made kasi my guitar is a LP replica, Greco EG-700. Parang nagegets ko yang sinasabi mo pero pag binaliktad ko, magaadjust pa ako ng saddles (intonation issues) which is hindi talaga ako marunong although I've tried dati.

balak ko rin magpaset-up sakanya. PM kita for details hehe.

to follow pictures, nasa office pa hahaha

[nathanmanansala]

Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.

Have you tried top wrapping? Ako din ang preference ko is with the tailpiece screwed all the way down to the body. feels and sounds more solid to me that way (the coupling nonsense playing mind games with me). kaya lang when i do that, yung strings touch the back of the bridge body and the guitar definitely sounds and sustains better when the strings touch just the saddle. so yung work around ko is to top wrap (pics sa first post of this thread). I recently purchased faber tone lock spacers from MicSis. I'll post an update sa next string change.

I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.

yes. on some guitars, yung break angle nung strings behind the bridge to the tailpiece is so sharp, it pushes and tilts the bridge forward, resulting in the strings touching the back edge of the bridge body. The sharp angle helps the sustain to my ears though. more tension on the bridge. pero yun nga, its a balancing act between maximizing tension over the bridge (to maximize vibe transfer to the body) but at the same time make sure the strings touch just the saddles and not the bridge body.

[r_chino18]

Pre, Tune-o-matic bridge yata tawag sa bridge ko, stock lang sa gitara ko. Pero not sure kung may pagkakaiba siya sa ibang TOM bridge na US made kasi my guitar is a LP replica, Greco EG-700. Parang nagegets ko yang sinasabi mo pero pag binaliktad ko, magaadjust pa ako ng saddles (intonation issues) which is hindi talaga ako marunong although I've tried dati.

balak ko rin magpaset-up sakanya. PM kita for details hehe.

to follow pictures, nasa office pa hahaha

Must be an ABR-1 bridge rather than a tune-o-matic (TOM).. Mas sexy yung ABR-1 saka sa machine screws w/ thumbwheel siya nakapatong..

Kung stock pa yung bridge, most probably mababa na yung mismong saddles kaya sumasayad na.. Same thing with my Greco LP's ABR-1.. Pero di pa naman sumasayad yung sakin dati..

[jepbueno]

"this can push your abr1 forward so hard, the posts will eventually bend or come loose where it goes into the body. i've seen it happen to one les paul a few years back." -nathanmanansala

^Nabother lang ako dahil diyan kaya gusto ko ito i-setup or ma-ipasetup hehe. Indeed, balancing act it is.

Any comments sir sa effect ng angle ng pagkakalagay ng neck sa body? Kasi I have 2 guitars using similar bridge, one is this LP I was talking about and the other one is a Yamaha SG200. Parehong almost dikit sa body ang tailpiece yet sa LP eh sumayad ang strings sa bridge and sa SG hindi, kahit hindi naka-wrap around. I was being OC and I just observed kanina na mas angled ang connection ng neck to body sa LP ko. I'll try wrap around pag hindi na talaga pwede hehe.

Anong pagkakaiba ng ABR-1? I did a quick search and nakalagay is "ABR-1 Tune-o-Matic" haha. Yes sir chino medyo mababa na yata yung saddles, and you're right nakapatong siya mismo doon sa thumbwheel unlike sa SG200 ko.

Here are some pictures by the way, first two pictures is the LP.








Thanks sa help sirs! Medyo naliwanagan ako.

[nathanmanansala]

yes, yung neck angle plays a big role but sa pic na 'to i noticed:

- this bridge has a taller body than the one in the first 2 pics
- the "ears" of the bridge arent resting in the thumb screw. magkaibang set sila yata. yung bridge "ears" should be resting on the thumb screw.
- you're forced to set the thumb screw lower to compensate for the bridge body height and the way the body itself sits on the thumb screw instead of the bridge ears.
- the string height over the face of the guitar is similar to the other pics so yung neck angle must be similar or close

[masarapangtaho]

@TS: with regards to top-wrapping, napansin ko yung end winds (the one that holds the ball ends of the strings) would usually show up and make a sharp angle sa end ng bridge. but in your case hindi. do you bend he ends of your strings first before doing the wrap? i've been top-wrapping for 3 years now and this is usually my problem.

[nathanmanansala]

yes, yung neck angle plays a big role but sa pic na 'to i noticed:

- this bridge has a taller body than the one in the first 2 pics
- the "ears" of the bridge arent resting in the thumb screw. magkaibang set sila yata. yung bridge "ears" should be resting on the thumb screw.
- you're forced to set the thumb screw lower to compensate for the bridge body height and the way the body itself sits on the thumb screw instead of the bridge ears.
- the string height over the face of the guitar is similar to the other pics so yung neck angle must be similar or close

another thing: yung first bridge mo looks more like a nashville type, the 2nd looks like an abr. mas mataba yung nashville usually.

@TS: with regards to top-wrapping, napansin ko yung end winds (the one that holds the ball ends of the strings) would usually show up and make a sharp angle sa end ng bridge. but in your case hindi. do you bend he ends of your strings first before doing the wrap? i've been top-wrapping for 3 years now and this is usually my problem.

i thread the strings through the holes first then bend them where they exit though usually yung tension from tuning them up bends them that way na din. di ba ganun yung sa yo?

[jellogz]

Pansin ko bro mababa saddles mo katulad ng sabi ni r_chino, have you considered replacing the saddles?

[grasyaps]

i was smiling while reading this. i do the exact same thing especially # 2 and #4.

i use the next peg to approximate the slack i need to give it. then, the over under the rest style.

kudos!

[r_chino18]

another thing: yung first bridge mo looks more like a nashville type, the 2nd looks like an abr. mas mataba yung nashville usually.

+ wan million!!

Nashville style pala yung nasa Greco kaya sumasabit. Malapad masyado ang Nashville compared sa ABR-1 na mas sexy. Sasabit talaga yung strings lalo pag mababa na saddles.

[jepbueno]

Thanks sa inputs sirs! Ayun pala kaya sumasayad.

I'll research more muna regarding the things you all have said especially the kinds of bridge (nashville & abr) wala pa ako alam diyan then babalik ako dito

[r_chino18]

Thanks sa inputs sirs! Ayun pala kaya sumasayad.

I'll research more muna regarding the things you all have said especially the kinds of bridge (nashville & abr) wala pa ako alam diyan then babalik ako dito

Yung Greco mo sir ay late 70s? Mga 1978? Parang dun ko kasi nakikita yung ganyang malapad na bridge..

Common yan kahit sa mga Nashville bridge ng Gibson, halos same niyan ang lapad.. sumasabit din pag masyadong mababa ang tailpiece..

[fingertapper1]

wow i've learned so much!  it's amazing to learn that simple restringing is such a subtle art. just got to playing again after a few years and i previously used double locking guitars exclusively but now strat and and lps na.

for a fender strat that na set yung bridge na hindi floating. do i still need to use lubricants or di naman. as for winding the strings may effect ba pag more than 3 times nag wrap around sa post? let's say double. ano effect niya?