TALK @ PhilMusic.com - The Online Home of the Pinoy Musician
The Musician Forums => Guitar Central => Topic started by: nathanmanansala on March 16, 2013, 12:43:01 PM
-
there was a recent question sa PM FB group asking how many times strings should wrap around the string post for Gibson type headstocks. i've seen a lot of messy restrings too so i thought i'd share how i keep it looking neat (which helps with tuning stability i think). with pics!!! :-P
1) use no more than 3 wraps areound the string post. 2 on the wound strings, 3 in the plain ones would be ideal. like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_105101_zps36b0a364.jpg)
2) use the post further towards the head's end as reference. if you're stringing the 6th, lay out the string and mark where it goes over the 5th string post (gripping it there would do) then string it through the 6th string post only up to that point. this give you just enough slack to go around the post 2 times for the wound strings and 3 for the plain ones approximately. sa fender heads, grip it between the 5th and 4th string posts. this is to be repeated for the other strings.
3) i dont like "knotting" the strings kasi it give the strings too sharp a notch that they could later break on. instead i prefer using opposing angles and edges for the strings to catch on and grip. like when the string goes through the post, sa opposite side of the hole i bend it the opposite direction. sa entry side of the whole, it will be bend towards the body so sa exit side of the whole i bend it towards the head end. this kinks, pulls and catchesit against 2 edges to grip as tension is added to helps prevent slippage.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_103651_zpsbf0d7c69.jpg)
4) sa 1st wind go over the string entry point then under for the rest. this "pinches" the wound strings as you wind around the post helping prevent slippage (again). saw this in an erlewine article sa magazine back in the 90s. like this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_102939_zpsb099ff53.jpg)
another angle:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_103020_zps806d1669.jpg)
4) tune to pitch then stretch the slack between tuner post and nut by bending it sharply sa first 3 frets
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_105324_zps3c9818ab.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_105334_zpsbcd5a669.jpg)
repeat 3x retuning between each stretching.
5) stretch out the string some more between the nut and bridge. i usually lift it sa 12th fret (not too much, you dont want to break it) and pull each string over the strings adjacent to it on the bass and treble side
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_105410_zps8df35479.jpg)
repeat 3 to 5 times retuning after each stretching or until it doesnt go flat anymore after each stretching.
6) play the damn thing. then come back and check again a few hours later and check if the strings still stretch out of tune. it usually wont but if it does, just retune and st recth a bit more.
bridge setup ideas:
i like the stop tail studs flush to the body but sometimes that results in a beak angle so sharp it will touch the back of your bridge and this can push your abr1 forward so hard, the posts will eventually bend or come loose where it goes into the body. i've seen it happen to one les paul a few years back. so i've started top wrapping. with the strings touching just the saddles, they seem to sound out clearer (dont really know why but it sounds like that to me.
stop tail flush to body, top wrapped:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_104342_zps98d411ae.jpg)
strings go over the saddles cleanly and do not touch the back edge of the bridge:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130316_104320_zpsf5390baa.jpg)
got any setup tips you'd like to share?
-
oh and i leave a little excess string past the tuning posts cuz i'm a tinkerer and it gives me more string to work with if i have to loosen them to tweak something like swapping the pickups or magnets in the pickups but if you're sure the next time you unwind the strings is when you'll be changing them, snip them closes but leave about a half inch from the post. you dont want it to slip there too.
-
I floss the strings on the saddles and the nut to eliminate any small burrs then I lubricate them with graphite everytime I restring.
-
Don't use pencil lead as nut and saddle lubricant.
-
Don't use pencil lead as nut and saddle lubricant.
Marami pa din gumagawa nito. May magpapasetup sakin "sir lagyan mo ng pencil lead! alam mo yun?"
(http://i794.photobucket.com/albums/yy227/gunslingerz13/facepalm-1.gif)
-
Don't use pencil lead as nut and saddle lubricant.
what do you use instead?
-
why not?
-
why not?
It's not pure graphite. It also contains clay (and wax too, I believe). Using pencil lead on your guitar as a lubricant will just damage it in the long run because of the clay content. I stopped using pencil lead on my bone nut years ago.
-
what do you use instead?
Guitar Grease: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Nuts,_saddles/Tools_and_supplies:_String_slot_lubricant.html
I've heard lip gloss and lithium grease works nicely, too.
why not?
Because it's bad for your guitar:
http://www.allibrero.com/index.php/component/k2/item/36-a-pencil-is-for-writing-not-lubricating-a-guitar
-
if you have a good set-up already, its good to record all measurements( string action, relief, pickup height etc.) for future use in case you have to work on the guitar again. saves you tons of time rather than eyeballing it all over again. its also a reference if ever your guitar suddenly feels and sounds different or developed string buzz. i always re-check the measurements after restringing just in case if the saddles or bridge moved while stringing.
another tip is to change strings one at a time if you don't need all the strings off specially if you have a floating trem. it also lessens the risk of accidentally messing your set-up.
-
It's not pure graphite. It also contains clay (and wax too, I believe). Using pencil lead on your guitar as a lubricant will just damage it in the long run because of the clay content. I stopped using pencil lead on my bone nut years ago.
Ngayon ko lang nalaman to -Thanks sa info.but I don't use graphite pencil.
Kakagamit naman nawawala na yung bind sa strings.
nut slot filing would help too-yung pabilog.
-
Awesome! Do one for strats too, TS.
-
Awesome! Do one for strats too, TS.
i dont have any strats. teles na lang. its almost the same thing except the tuners on teles and strats are closer together BUT if you have safeti post tuners, you'll need more string to stick into that hole so i cut the string 1.5 tuners down for the wound strings and 2 tuners down for the plain ones.
for the 6th string, give it slack to reach sarea between the 5th and 4th posts. for the 3rd, enough to reach the 1st.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v700/nathanmanansala/Snapbucket/IMG_20130318_111839_zps80194bd2.jpg)
i do a little wrapover for the plain strings too to prevent slippage. i find that the wound strings are kinked twice from the safeti post (once where they exit the hole and again where they bend sa edge of the slit on top) and that helps prevent slipping. plus they're too thick for the wrapover.
i'll post pics of the wrapover technique when i change strings on the teles this weekend.
there's another reason i dont play strats anymore too: i like my trem to float and drive myself crazy setting it up right. :lol: then i end up worrying about breaking a string in the middle of a set.
-
Nice share.
Thanks TS
-
this is a really good thread nuts! i think i'll sticky it, hehe.
guys, feel free to post pics on how you do minor repairs, setup, etc. on your guitars. para matuto tayong lahat from each other.
-
Let's just add a link to this thread at the first post of the FAQ thread. We'll only sticky more generic and frequently accessed topics and/or admin-related threads.
-
for locking tuners, I make sure I do 2-3 wraps around the string post, at least double yung pagiging secure nung string sa post without slippage from the locking cam
-
Thanks for the tip :)
Question lang, how do you estimate the length of the string when changing it? I mean to make sure na 2-3 wraps lang ang mangyari and di sumobra?
My common experience kasi is sumosobra sa 3 wraps yung pagkabit ko ng string. :-(
-
Thanks for the tip :)
Question lang, how do you estimate the length of the string when changing it? I mean to make sure na 2-3 wraps lang ang mangyari and di sumobra?
My common experience kasi is sumosobra sa 3 wraps yung pagkabit ko ng string. :-(
what kind of tuners do you have?
pag regular tuners na walang slot sa post, usually insert the string ng sagad muna then from the post, estimate ka mga 1-1.25", hawakan mo yung point na yun, then itulak mo pabalik sa post, from there i-wrap around mo na yung string.
pag slotted naman yung tuning post, like those found in vintage-type strats and teles. same procedure, i-sagad mo muna, then count mga 2" from the tuning post, hold it then cut it from there. that would give enough allowance for 2-3 wraps given na meron pang part ng string na i-insert dun sa butas sa tuning post.
-
Thanks for the tip :)
Question lang, how do you estimate the length of the string when changing it? I mean to make sure na 2-3 wraps lang ang mangyari and di sumobra?
My common experience kasi is sumosobra sa 3 wraps yung pagkabit ko ng string. :-(
sinusukat ko sa length ng pinky from the string post.
-
Thanks for the tip :)
Question lang, how do you estimate the length of the string when changing it? I mean to make sure na 2-3 wraps lang ang mangyari and di sumobra?
My common experience kasi is sumosobra sa 3 wraps yung pagkabit ko ng string. :-(
i use the other string posts. i explained it in my first post but medyo magulo nga. I think I should've used pics there too.
pag Gibson 3+3 style na headstock, for example: for the 6th string, i stretch out the string past the 6th string tuning post. tapos right over where it meets the 5th string tuning post, i grip it there (and hold that spot). then i thread it through the 6th string post till my fingers gripping the string hit the post. thats where i stop. that usually gives me 2 winds around the post for the wound string and 3 winds around the post for the plain strings.
pag Fender style 6-inline headstock, for the 6th string: i grip it where the string is halfway between the 5th and 4th string posts. tas sa plain strings, i grip it 2 posts down.
for the last tuning post sa end of the headstock, you'll have to get creative. like stretch the string out over the last tuning post, grip it where it goes over the post, then hold that point over the post before it, then mark down (or move your grip to) where it goes over the last string post again.
i'll post more detailed pics ulit but its important kasi that you don't wind the string over other windings: this creates a moving base for your strings to sit on around the tuning post (not very stable and takes longer to stretch and settle). also, using fewer winds around the post results in less stretching time as there's less of the string to stretch (and settle). use as few as you can get away with (kaya 2 or 3 lang). this is why manufacturers recommend you do not wind around the post for locking tuners. fewer winds (if you can can get them to grip) are usually more stable. plus they look cleaner too.
-
Thanks for the tips.
For my lp, i make sure that i push the strings down while turning the tuner and make sure that the string dont go over itself.
-
Minimum of 3 wraps around the tuning post
-
Minimum of 3 wraps around the tuning post
newbie quiestion...does this also applies for locking tuners? :eek:
-
Minimum of 3 wraps around the tuning post
minimum? you dont find that it takes a bit longer for the strings to stretch out and settle?
newbie quiestion...does this also applies for locking tuners? :eek:
for locking tuners, no wraps. just pull the string taut through the post, lock it, tune up. then start stretching/retuning/stretching
-
for locking tuners, no wraps. just pull the string taut through the post, lock it, tune up. then start stretching/retuning/stretching
Most locking tuners, ganyan ang sinasabi. :-)
Pero I've learned na mas ok pa rin if makakaikot yung string sa post at least once. Mas may room for detuning saka hindi laging may stress dun sa breakpoint ng string sa post.
Sa experience ko kasi, laging napuputulan ng string sa post ng locking tuners pag luluwagan yung string then hihigpitan ulit (to pitch).
-
Most locking tuners, ganyan ang sinasabi. :-)
Pero I've learned na mas ok pa rin if makakaikot yung string sa post at least once. Mas may room for detuning saka hindi laging may stress dun sa breakpoint ng string sa post.
Sa experience ko kasi, laging napuputulan ng string sa post ng locking tuners pag luluwagan yung string then hihigpitan ulit (to pitch).
ah onga. pag madalas ka mag detune/slacken ng strings, parang wire lang yun na bine-bend mo at the same spot repeatedly. dun din mabilis maputol.
-
Yep. Back when I still had my RG with Sperzel tuners, At least may 1/2 to 1 turn around the post. Allowance lang for tuning. :-)
-
nice tips, thanks for this :)
-
Topic Related: What should be put in the nut after/before restringing? Graphite ba talaga? Where to buy? What type and brand? Alot of people recommend it. TIA
-
Mga sirs, ang problem ko hindi sa restringing pero sa setup siguro. Hindi rin ako sure na problem nga ito kasi hindi naman ako nagkakaproblema sa pagtugtog ng maayos at hindi rin ito nahahalata ng mga tao habang nag-tune ng gitara ko or pag may nakigamit. Hindi rin naman umikli ang life ng strings (madaling maputol).
Anyways ito yung situation. I have a greco LP, and siyempre yung strings go through the tailpiece, then sa bridge/saddles, to the nut, and finally sa tuners. Ang napapansin ko is yung strings sa place between the saddles and the tailpiece, pumapatong sila sa edge ng bridge (na hindi meant to be pagpatungan sa pagkakaalam ko). And yung strings also ay sumasayad sa upper part ng butas ng tailpiece.
Ang napapansin kong consequence is masyadong low ang action. Sabi ng iba baka daw magkaproblema sa intonation. So far, averagely intonated naman, and natotono ko naman. Adjusting the height of the tailpiece and the bridge is not enough sa case ko.
I've texted sir micsis noon, nagsuggest siya na gawin kong warp-around sa tailpiece. Natry ko pero hindi ko gusto ang feel at hitsura. Any suggestion guys? TIA :)
-
I've heard from other forums that petroleum jelly does the trick like big bend's. i use that method and it seems nice for me. whatchathink?
-
Mga sirs, ang problem ko hindi sa restringing pero sa setup siguro. Hindi rin ako sure na problem nga ito kasi hindi naman ako nagkakaproblema sa pagtugtog ng maayos at hindi rin ito nahahalata ng mga tao habang nag-tune ng gitara ko or pag may nakigamit. Hindi rin naman umikli ang life ng strings (madaling maputol).
Anyways ito yung situation. I have a greco LP, and siyempre yung strings go through the tailpiece, then sa bridge/saddles, to the nut, and finally sa tuners. Ang napapansin ko is yung strings sa place between the saddles and the tailpiece, pumapatong sila sa edge ng bridge (na hindi meant to be pagpatungan sa pagkakaalam ko).
True. If ayaw mo na wraparound, adjust mo yung dalawang post ng tailpiece. Iraise mo konti yung tailpiece, just enough para hindi tumama yung strings dun sa corner ng bridge.
And yung strings also ay sumasayad sa upper part ng butas ng tailpiece.
Normal lang ito.
Ang napapansin kong consequence is masyadong low ang action. Sabi ng iba baka daw magkaproblema sa intonation. So far, averagely intonated naman, and natotono ko naman. Adjusting the height of the tailpiece and the bridge is not enough sa case ko.
I've texted sir micsis noon, nagsuggest siya na gawin kong warp-around sa tailpiece. Natry ko pero hindi ko gusto ang feel at hitsura. Any suggestion guys? TIA :)
Kung action, sa height ng bridge yan magiging pinaka dependent. Regardless sa height ng tailpiece, yung bridge at saddles mismo ang magcocontrol sa action.
-
check out bill baker's method at youtube.com. I find it really effective.
-
True. If ayaw mo na wraparound, adjust mo yung dalawang post ng tailpiece. Iraise mo konti yung tailpiece, just enough para hindi tumama yung strings dun sa corner ng bridge.
Normal lang ito.
Kung action, sa height ng bridge yan magiging pinaka dependent. Regardless sa height ng tailpiece, yung bridge at saddles mismo ang magcocontrol sa action.
Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.
I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.
I'll try to post pictures this week para mas malinaw ang usapan, hehe. I'm also considering na ipa-setup to sa isa sa mga luthiers natin pag nagkaroon ng time, never ko pa kasi ito nadala sa luthier/tech.
-
Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.
I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.
I'll try to post pictures this week para mas malinaw ang usapan, hehe. I'm also considering na ipa-setup to sa isa sa mga luthiers natin pag nagkaroon ng time, never ko pa kasi ito nadala sa luthier/tech.
or get new saddles for the bridge, para mas mataas.. baka mababa na yung current saddles niya kaya sabit na talaga kahit anong height ng tailpiece..
-
Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.
I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.
I'll try to post pictures this week para mas malinaw ang usapan, hehe. I'm also considering na ipa-setup to sa isa sa mga luthiers natin pag nagkaroon ng time, never ko pa kasi ito nadala sa luthier/tech.
Anong klaseng bridge meron ka bro? Sumasayad din strings ko dati pero not on the bridge, kundi dun sa screws ng saddles, ginawa na lang ni Micsis is binaliktad nya yung bridge where the screws heads are located dun na sa side ng bridge pups instead na dun sa side ng tailpiece, and yep, patingin ng pechurs :)
-
Anong klaseng bridge meron ka bro? Sumasayad din strings ko dati pero not on the bridge, kundi dun sa screws ng saddles, ginawa na lang ni Micsis is binaliktad nya yung bridge where the screws heads are located dun na sa side ng bridge pups instead na dun sa side ng tailpiece, and yep, patingin ng pechurs :)
Pre, Tune-o-matic bridge yata tawag sa bridge ko, stock lang sa gitara ko. Pero not sure kung may pagkakaiba siya sa ibang TOM bridge na US made kasi my guitar is a LP replica, Greco EG-700. Parang nagegets ko yang sinasabi mo pero pag binaliktad ko, magaadjust pa ako ng saddles (intonation issues) which is hindi talaga ako marunong although I've tried dati.
balak ko rin magpaset-up sakanya. PM kita for details hehe.
to follow pictures, nasa office pa hahaha
-
Thanks sir! I've tried adjusting the height of the tailpiece pero masyadong tumataas na at ganoon pa rin ung situation. as in yung ampanget na dahil mataas na yung height ng tailpiece pero sayad pa rin sa edge ng bridge. Yung bridge height naman nag-aalangan lang ako itaas pa kasi lalong hihigpit ung pagkakagat ng strings sa edge ng bridge.
Have you tried top wrapping? Ako din ang preference ko is with the tailpiece screwed all the way down to the body. feels and sounds more solid to me that way (the coupling nonsense playing mind games with me). kaya lang when i do that, yung strings touch the back of the bridge body and the guitar definitely sounds and sustains better when the strings touch just the saddle. so yung work around ko is to top wrap (pics sa first post of this thread). I recently purchased faber tone lock spacers from MicSis. I'll post an update sa next string change.
I think may kinalaman rin ang angle ng pagkakakabit ng neck sa body? So far action lang naman talaga problem ko. Which is sa preference ko lang. Yung iba nakagamit ng LP ko, gusto nila yung action, para sakin mababa.
yes. on some guitars, yung break angle nung strings behind the bridge to the tailpiece is so sharp, it pushes and tilts the bridge forward, resulting in the strings touching the back edge of the bridge body. The sharp angle helps the sustain to my ears though. more tension on the bridge. pero yun nga, its a balancing act between maximizing tension over the bridge (to maximize vibe transfer to the body) but at the same time make sure the strings touch just the saddles and not the bridge body.
-
Pre, Tune-o-matic bridge yata tawag sa bridge ko, stock lang sa gitara ko. Pero not sure kung may pagkakaiba siya sa ibang TOM bridge na US made kasi my guitar is a LP replica, Greco EG-700. Parang nagegets ko yang sinasabi mo pero pag binaliktad ko, magaadjust pa ako ng saddles (intonation issues) which is hindi talaga ako marunong although I've tried dati.
balak ko rin magpaset-up sakanya. PM kita for details hehe.
to follow pictures, nasa office pa hahaha
Must be an ABR-1 bridge rather than a tune-o-matic (TOM).. Mas sexy yung ABR-1 saka sa machine screws w/ thumbwheel siya nakapatong..
Kung stock pa yung bridge, most probably mababa na yung mismong saddles kaya sumasayad na.. Same thing with my Greco LP's ABR-1.. Pero di pa naman sumasayad yung sakin dati..
-
"this can push your abr1 forward so hard, the posts will eventually bend or come loose where it goes into the body. i've seen it happen to one les paul a few years back." -nathanmanansala
^Nabother lang ako dahil diyan kaya gusto ko ito i-setup or ma-ipasetup hehe. Indeed, balancing act it is.
Any comments sir sa effect ng angle ng pagkakalagay ng neck sa body? Kasi I have 2 guitars using similar bridge, one is this LP I was talking about and the other one is a Yamaha SG200. Parehong almost dikit sa body ang tailpiece yet sa LP eh sumayad ang strings sa bridge and sa SG hindi, kahit hindi naka-wrap around. I was being OC and I just observed kanina na mas angled ang connection ng neck to body sa LP ko. I'll try wrap around pag hindi na talaga pwede hehe.
Anong pagkakaiba ng ABR-1? I did a quick search and nakalagay is "ABR-1 Tune-o-Matic" haha. Yes sir chino medyo mababa na yata yung saddles, and you're right nakapatong siya mismo doon sa thumbwheel unlike sa SG200 ko.
Here are some pictures by the way, first two pictures is the LP. :)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m540/jepbueno/1.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m540/jepbueno/2.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m540/jepbueno/3.jpg)
Thanks sa help sirs! Medyo naliwanagan ako.
-
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m540/jepbueno/3.jpg)
yes, yung neck angle plays a big role but sa pic na 'to i noticed:
- this bridge has a taller body than the one in the first 2 pics
- the "ears" of the bridge arent resting in the thumb screw. magkaibang set sila yata. yung bridge "ears" should be resting on the thumb screw.
- you're forced to set the thumb screw lower to compensate for the bridge body height and the way the body itself sits on the thumb screw instead of the bridge ears.
- the string height over the face of the guitar is similar to the other pics so yung neck angle must be similar or close
-
@TS: with regards to top-wrapping, napansin ko yung end winds (the one that holds the ball ends of the strings) would usually show up and make a sharp angle sa end ng bridge. but in your case hindi. do you bend he ends of your strings first before doing the wrap? i've been top-wrapping for 3 years now and this is usually my problem. :-D
-
yes, yung neck angle plays a big role but sa pic na 'to i noticed:
- this bridge has a taller body than the one in the first 2 pics
- the "ears" of the bridge arent resting in the thumb screw. magkaibang set sila yata. yung bridge "ears" should be resting on the thumb screw.
- you're forced to set the thumb screw lower to compensate for the bridge body height and the way the body itself sits on the thumb screw instead of the bridge ears.
- the string height over the face of the guitar is similar to the other pics so yung neck angle must be similar or close
another thing: yung first bridge mo looks more like a nashville type, the 2nd looks like an abr. mas mataba yung nashville usually.
@TS: with regards to top-wrapping, napansin ko yung end winds (the one that holds the ball ends of the strings) would usually show up and make a sharp angle sa end ng bridge. but in your case hindi. do you bend he ends of your strings first before doing the wrap? i've been top-wrapping for 3 years now and this is usually my problem. :-D
i thread the strings through the holes first then bend them where they exit though usually yung tension from tuning them up bends them that way na din. di ba ganun yung sa yo?
-
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m540/jepbueno/1.jpg)
(http://i1130.photobucket.com/albums/m540/jepbueno/2.jpg)
Pansin ko bro mababa saddles mo katulad ng sabi ni r_chino, have you considered replacing the saddles?
-
i was smiling while reading this. i do the exact same thing especially # 2 and #4.
i use the next peg to approximate the slack i need to give it. then, the over under the rest style.
kudos!
-
another thing: yung first bridge mo looks more like a nashville type, the 2nd looks like an abr. mas mataba yung nashville usually.
+ wan million!!
Nashville style pala yung nasa Greco kaya sumasabit. Malapad masyado ang Nashville compared sa ABR-1 na mas sexy. Sasabit talaga yung strings lalo pag mababa na saddles.
-
Thanks sa inputs sirs! Ayun pala kaya sumasayad.
I'll research more muna regarding the things you all have said especially the kinds of bridge (nashville & abr) wala pa ako alam diyan then babalik ako dito :)
-
Thanks sa inputs sirs! Ayun pala kaya sumasayad.
I'll research more muna regarding the things you all have said especially the kinds of bridge (nashville & abr) wala pa ako alam diyan then babalik ako dito :)
Yung Greco mo sir ay late 70s? Mga 1978? Parang dun ko kasi nakikita yung ganyang malapad na bridge..
Common yan kahit sa mga Nashville bridge ng Gibson, halos same niyan ang lapad.. sumasabit din pag masyadong mababa ang tailpiece..
-
wow i've learned so much! it's amazing to learn that simple restringing is such a subtle art. just got to playing again after a few years and i previously used double locking guitars exclusively but now strat and and lps na.
for a fender strat that na set yung bridge na hindi floating. do i still need to use lubricants or di naman. as for winding the strings may effect ba pag more than 3 times nag wrap around sa post? let's say double. ano effect niya?
-
wow i've learned so much! it's amazing to learn that simple restringing is such a subtle art. just got to playing again after a few years and i previously used double locking guitars exclusively but now strat and and lps na.
for a fender strat that na set yung bridge na hindi floating. do i still need to use lubricants or di naman. as for winding the strings may effect ba pag more than 3 times nag wrap around sa post? let's say double. ano effect niya?
It depends bro. Assess the nut kung ok yung nut slots at nakaka move back and forth yung strings freely. Meaning, hindi sila nasstuck or nagbbind sa slots.
Kaya nilalagyan ng lubricant, para pag nag bend or trem ay babalik at magsslide yung strings ng maayos sa slots.
Kung maayos naman ang nut, kahit hindi na siguro lagyan ng nut lubricant.
-
@r_chino18, oo sir 1978, this is the same exact guitar that was owned by royc na nasa 1st page ng Greco Users Thread. Baka ito rin sir yung nakita mo? hehe.
..still reading on various websites about those bridges. :)
-
@r_chino18, oo sir 1978, this is the same exact guitar that was owned by royc na nasa 1st page ng Greco Users Thread. Baka ito rin sir yung nakita mo? hehe.
..still reading on various websites about those bridges. :)
Hula ko lang yung 1978.. :lol: pura ganyan kasi mga bridge nung mga early to late 70s na Greco..
Eto pagkakaintindi ko sa iba't-ibang bridges..
Tune-o-matic (notice mo yung bushing at mounting screws ng bridge)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/Chrome-Electric-Guitar-Tune-O-Matic-Bridge-for-Les-Paul-/00/s/NjAwWDYwMA==/z/cQAAAMXQBwlRLyUw/$%28KGrHqF,!qMFESIt+TtJBRLyUwmm6Q~~60_35.JPG)
ABR-1 (eto yung mga nasa lumang LP na bridge na mas sexy.. yung screw nito ay naka mount directly sa kahoy)
(http://www.cvgshop.com/images/ABR-1.jpg)
Nashville (halos same sa ABR-1 pero mas malapad)
(http://images.gibson.com.s3.amazonaws.com/Products/Electric-Guitars/Les-Paul/Gibson-USA/Les-Paul-Studio/Details-Images/Bridge.jpg)
-
wow i've learned so much! it's amazing to learn that simple restringing is such a subtle art. just got to playing again after a few years and i previously used double locking guitars exclusively but now strat and and lps na.
for a fender strat that na set yung bridge na hindi floating. do i still need to use lubricants or di naman. as for winding the strings may effect ba pag more than 3 times nag wrap around sa post? let's say double. ano effect niya?
If it needs lubricating, then do so. You'll go out of tune if the strings don't move freely. Minsan nagssnap pa. I've experienced that snapping/popping sound dati sa may nut.
Yes may effect kapag masyado maraming wraps around the post. Double yung pag coil? Baka dumulas lang yung strings at mawala ka sa tono lagi.
-
ok cool thanks!