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Author Topic: DIY boutique amps, pedals, mod kits, proto-type circuits, etc - Post them here!  (Read 1784857 times)

Offline plugzzzz

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Patrick starfish reverb
Kapag merong tanong o ikay naguguluhan igoogle mo

PLUGELECTRONIC'S RECTORIZER

Offline hiskoolstudes

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san pwde bumili ng parts online to build a pedal?

I'm interesting in building a RAT or a Woolly mammoth clone.
LF:
Ibanez Musician Bass

Offline emil_murillo

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san pwde bumili ng parts online to build a pedal?

I'm interesting in building a RAT or a Woolly mammoth clone.

Internatioinal ▼

RADIOSHACK
MAPLIN
MOUSER
DIGIKEY

Local ▼

SPUDMUSIC, EPEKTOS, GUITAR PUSHER,  DRAGON-SWITCH, EPICTONE, Etc




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü


Offline kawayan_strat

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Re: DIY boutique amps, pedals, mod kits, proto-type circuits, etc - Post them here!
« Reply #8828 on: September 02, 2020, 07:57:35 PM »
Matagal din ako hindi nakapag-post dito.

My latest build.... Kramtone Bushido V4



Sound test

https://www.facebook.com/KRAMTONE/poAsts/10221874688350878



Offline lolwat

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Never thought I'd ever get this far DIY'ing. My first tube amplifier build, put together using schematics from AX84.com for the power section, and a classic Blackface Twin Reverb channel 1 for the preamp. Still doing some minor tweaks here and there, but it's 100% running, and sounds really good cranked.



« Last Edit: March 09, 2021, 11:03:20 PM by lolwat »

Offline titser_marco

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Ganda! Where'd you buy the chassis and all other parts?
I'd rather be sharp than flat.

Offline emil_murillo

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Ganda! Where'd you buy the chassis and all other parts?

marco it's always worth a try and ask mang raul.. alam ko may bending machine siya which he uses with his tube amp/pedal enclosures before..




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Offline emil_murillo

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Never thought I'd ever get this far DIY'ing. My first tube amplifier build, put together using schematics from AX84.com for the power section, and a classic Blackface Twin Reverb channel 1 for the preamp. Still doing some minor tweaks here and there, but it's 100% running, and sounds really good cranked.





ang galing bro!



Job 7:8
Though your beginnings were modest, your latter days will flourish.




God bless Ü

Offline lolwat

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Thank you sirs!

Got the power transformer (Hammond 370FX) and chassis (Hammond 1441-32BK3) from Mouser.

The output transformer (Toei OPT-20S), rectifier diodes (UF4007) 1/4" jacks (Switchcraft), potentiometers (Tocos Cosmos RV24YN20S series), high-voltage switches (NKK M series), knobs, tube sockets, IEC connector, pilot light holder, and bias test points are from Akihabara in Tokyo, Japan.

The Standoffs are from RS Online, measuring 75mm x M5 threads for mounting the entire thing onto a head or combo shell, and 20mm x M4 for holding the Lazada-sourced eyelet board onto the chassis.

I had to special-order the 120pF and 250pF Silver Mica signal capacitors because I couldn't seem to find anything that's rated for at least 400V locally. These were ordered from element14.

All the remaining resistors, capacitors, switches, potentiometer, fuse holder, wires, screws, washers, nuts, bolts, and ring terminals were sourced locally (Ohms, Deeco, Alexan, etc.). Note the Orange Drop 716P capacitors rated for 400V, gotten from epektos if I'm not mistaken.

I'm still thinking of finding the correct incandescent lamp type for the pilot light, but right now I'm pretty satisfied with two diodes in parallel plus two current limiting resistors, with minimal flickering.

Offline titser_marco

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marco it's always worth a try and ask mang raul.. alam ko may bending machine siya which he uses with his tube amp/pedal enclosures before..




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Talked to him dati, sabi niya pinapagawa lang din nya chassis dati hehe. Kaya ang projects ko parati is from broken tube amps hehe.
I'd rather be sharp than flat.

Offline emil_murillo

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Thank you sirs!

Got the power transformer (Hammond 370FX) and chassis (Hammond 1441-32BK3) from Mouser.

The output transformer (Toei OPT-20S), rectifier diodes (UF4007) 1/4" jacks (Switchcraft), potentiometers (Tocos Cosmos RV24YN20S series), high-voltage switches (NKK M series), knobs, tube sockets, IEC connector, pilot light holder, and bias test points are from Akihabara in Tokyo, Japan.

The Standoffs are from RS Online, measuring 75mm x M5 threads for mounting the entire thing onto a head or combo shell, and 20mm x M4 for holding the Lazada-sourced eyelet board onto the chassis.

I had to special-order the 120pF and 250pF Silver Mica signal capacitors because I couldn't seem to find anything that's rated for at least 400V locally. These were ordered from element14.

All the remaining resistors, capacitors, switches, potentiometer, fuse holder, wires, screws, washers, nuts, bolts, and ring terminals were sourced locally (Ohms, Deeco, Alexan, etc.). Note the Orange Drop 716P capacitors rated for 400V, gotten from epektos if I'm not mistaken.

I'm still thinking of finding the correct incandescent lamp type for the pilot light, but right now I'm pretty satisfied with two diodes in parallel plus two current limiting resistors, with minimal flickering.


very helpful thanks for the info bro!



1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Offline emil_murillo

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Talked to him dati, sabi niya pinapagawa lang din nya chassis dati hehe. Kaya ang projects ko parati is from broken tube amps hehe.

nice.. puwede ka refer ni mang raul sa pinagpapagawaan niya.. alam ko kasi inilapit ko yun utility box design ni ian navarroza kay mang raul before.. itinawag ko sa kanya yun personally he acknowledges the work naman pero he doesn't clear any issue about having any press machine as i didn't mentioned it naman during our conversation.. he gets the job done naman pero mukhang puwede ngang nag middle man lang si mang raul or it could be something else.. anyways si jobet nagsabi sakin about sa bending machine or machine press ni mang raul..

try mo din marco sa mga latero, maybe you can talk them out about the specs na gusto mo.. or to some custom sheet metal fabricators.. doon sa dating apartment may kapit bahay kaming gumagawa ng "locker cabinets" sa kanila ako nag patulong tungkol sa powder coating services na alam nila dati..

but i will try my best to look online pa din bro.. it was good to hear from you again marco!




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü


Offline emil_murillo

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ito marco.. pagpasensiyahan mo na it's the closest possible i could get right now.. take off the flange and the rack handle na lang ▼

[click the image] ▼▼▼



ito naman other option ▼

[click the image] ▼▼▼





1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Offline lolwat

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Good evening all, this is an update to my post on my first DIY tube amplifier. After a few more months of work, it now has its own head shell and proper-looking faceplates. Now all it needs is a nice front cover panel (I'm thinking clear acrylic) and a tolexing job (still figuring out how to do it).




Offline samuelfianza

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Hello everyone!

After about a decade of reading online and building pedals in my head, I finally took the courage to build my actual first pedal, which obviously did not work as expected, and I need your inputs.

It is a preamp box based on the Sunn Model-T. This preamp has two channels (normal and bright), both capable of clean to high gain tones.

Because of the pricey shipping for very cheap items, I decided to just buy parts locally, build it on a perfboard following a schematic from guitarpcb.com.

And the result of my build: the normal channel has no sound. The bright channel does produce a sound that has a very slight distortion, but the gain has no effect on its intensity. The master volume and EQ surprisingly works.

Here are some of my guesses on why my build doesn't work:
1) Faulty or fake J201 transistors. This has been my problem even before deciding to try building. J201 is very hard to find so I proceeded to use the SMD version instead, as suggested by many. It is also my first time soldering SMDs so I might have caused damage in the process.

2) Faulty or wrong value bias trimpots. The build instructions said that the target bias voltage is 4.5v but the lowest I could get was around 6-7 volts. So I assumed I could be using faulty trimpots. Upon inspection I also noticed that shop I got it from gave me 10k trimpots instead of 20k as indicated by the schematic.

3) Wrong value capacitors. Again, the shop gave me different values for some caps: 470uF instead of 220uF (C3 & C7 on the schematic).

3) Bad soldering job. I think I did a pretty good job soldering but I wish this was the only reason.

Any suggestions are welcome!




[EDIT]
Problem solved! Turned out it was the gain pot having a wrong value.
« Last Edit: March 22, 2021, 10:34:14 PM by samuelfianza »

Offline lolwat

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Just completed another tube amp today, a bit more ambitious this time. It's my interpretation of a Mesa Boogie Mark IIC+, with separate volume, bass, middle, and treble controls, and a 5-band EQ.


Offline emil_murillo

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Matagal din ako hindi nakapag-post dito.

My latest build.... Kramtone Bushido V4



Sound test

https://www.facebook.com/KRAMTONE/poAsts/10221874688350878

uy bro sorry na-overlooked ko yun post mo.. ito ba yun build mo para kay mike elgar ng rivermaya?

i am very glad you are back on track now.. i always refer you to some inquirers hindi kita nakakalimutan but yun lang bro yun ginawa kong ads mo sa website which is based on a link of your "kramtone fb page".. sayang you deleted na yata.. pero when my schedule permits i will put the link of your fb profile.. would that be fine bro?



1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Offline emil_murillo

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Good evening all, this is an update to my post on my first DIY tube amplifier. After a few more months of work, it now has its own head shell and proper-looking faceplates. Now all it needs is a nice front cover panel (I'm thinking clear acrylic) and a tolexing job (still figuring out how to do it).






hi bro.. sm ace hardware have polyurethane varnish spray cans.. it comes with clear semi glossy.. but meron ding satin, egg shell, etc.. mas matibay siyang protection keysa acrylic against weathering, heat and some harmful chemicals.. i am using a clear semi glossy right now pero mas type ko yun satin dati nagiging matte finish.. and medyo curious ako sa egg shell.. i wanna try it some time din






1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Offline emil_murillo

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Hello everyone!

After about a decade of reading online and building pedals in my head, I finally took the courage to build my actual first pedal, which obviously did not work as expected, and I need your inputs.

It is a preamp box based on the Sunn Model-T. This preamp has two channels (normal and bright), both capable of clean to high gain tones.

Because of the pricey shipping for very cheap items, I decided to just buy parts locally, build it on a perfboard following a schematic from guitarpcb.com.

And the result of my build: the normal channel has no sound. The bright channel does produce a sound that has a very slight distortion, but the gain has no effect on its intensity. The master volume and EQ surprisingly works.

Here are some of my guesses on why my build doesn't work:
1) Faulty or fake J201 transistors. This has been my problem even before deciding to try building. J201 is very hard to find so I proceeded to use the SMD version instead, as suggested by many. It is also my first time soldering SMDs so I might have caused damage in the process.

2) Faulty or wrong value bias trimpots. The build instructions said that the target bias voltage is 4.5v but the lowest I could get was around 6-7 volts. So I assumed I could be using faulty trimpots. Upon inspection I also noticed that shop I got it from gave me 10k trimpots instead of 20k as indicated by the schematic.

3) Wrong value capacitors. Again, the shop gave me different values for some caps: 470uF instead of 220uF (C3 & C7 on the schematic).

3) Bad soldering job. I think I did a pretty good job soldering but I wish this was the only reason.

Any suggestions are welcome!




[EDIT]
Problem solved! Turned out it was the gain pot having a wrong value.


i'd say you have to be "keen to details" as all parts have different "electrical characteristics" i.e why there is a distinction between "J201" with "J202" or why they have different suffix numbers.. even when the "brand" is different as to TL022 of Texas Instrument Inc. and IR9022 of Sharp Corp. you may also find distinction on their electrical characteristics and audio output.. 

case in point:

same brand different suffix letter

TL022M (click for datasheet) has 150 µV/V Supply Voltage Rejection Ratio (SVRR) at Resistance of Source (RS) 50Ω

TL022C (click for datasheet) has 200 µV/V Supply Voltage Rejection Ratio (SVRR) at Resistance of Source (RS) 50Ω

whereas:

different brand different prefix letter/number

IR9022 (click for datasheet) has 200 µV/V Supply Voltage Rejection Ratio (SVRR) at Resistance of Source (RS) ≤10KΩ

Therefore:

they all react to psu differently.. and as to all solidstates out there.. so what's the significance of this to our daily guitar playing and/or pedalboarding???

∴ → it means that every pedals have different sensitivity and reacts to power supply differently.. even in a subtle difference there is.. technically speaking..

so technically a slight improvement on Ripple Voltage (△V=I/2fC) & Power Factor Correction (PFC) may be in need when powering IR9022 compare to TL022..

I believe the key is to read datasheets

but as you have just said → "Problem solved!".. we are very happy for the result man.. Happy Buildin' for you!




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü
« Last Edit: April 18, 2021, 03:03:59 PM by emil_murillo »

Offline emil_murillo

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Just completed another tube amp today, a bit more ambitious this time. It's my interpretation of a Mesa Boogie Mark IIC+, with separate volume, bass, middle, and treble controls, and a 5-band EQ.



Ganda ng tunog.. thanks for sharing!




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Offline emil_murillo

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i'd say you have to be "keen to details" as all parts have different "electrical characteristics" i.e why there is a distinction between "J201" with "J202" or why they have different suffix numbers.. even when the "brand" is different as to TL022 of Texas Instrument Inc. and IR9022 of Sharp Corp. you may also find distinction on their electrical characteristics and audio output.. 

case in point:

same brand different suffix letter

TL022M (click for datasheet) has 150 µV/V Supply Voltage Rejection Ratio (SVRR) at Resistance of Source (RS) 50Ω

TL022C (click for datasheet) has 200 µV/V Supply Voltage Rejection Ratio (SVRR) at Resistance of Source (RS) 50Ω

whereas:

different brand different prefix letter/number

IR9022 (click for datasheet) has 200 µV/V Supply Voltage Rejection Ratio (SVRR) at Resistance of Source (RS) ≤10KΩ

Therefore:

they all react to psu differently.. and as to all solidstates out there.. so what's the significance of this to our daily guitar playing and/or pedalboarding???

∴ → it means that every pedals have different sensitivity and reacts to power supply differently.. even in a subtle difference there is.. technically speaking..

so technically a slight improvement on Ripple Voltage (△V=I/2fC) & Power Factor Correction (PFC) may be in need when powering IR9022 compare to TL022..

I believe the key is to read datasheets

but as you have just said → "Problem solved!".. we are very happy for the result man.. Happy Buildin' for you!




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü


"with all your permission please let me elaborate furthermore"


On The Contrary:

it wasn't an essential nor a prerequisite to learn the entire knowledge of "electronics" to dealt with our pedals especially when it comes to powering them but to some popular terminologies only like:

AC (Alternating current)
  • Voltage Representation → e.g. 9VAC or 9V∿
  • Ampere or milliAmpere (current measurement) → e.g. 1A or 1000mA

DC (Direct current)
  • Voltage Representation → e.g. 9VDC or 9V⚎
  • Ampere or milliAmpere (current measurement for psu) → e.g. 1A or 1000mA
  • Ampere Per Hour or milliAmpere Per Hour (current measurement for battery) → e.g. 1AH or 1000mAH
again i believe the key is to read manuals.. because most important details & specifications were given out there..

Case In Point
  • voltage and current consumption.. by which they refer the later mostly by "current draw",
  • nominal voltage & current which are given significantly with range (e.g. >100mA)
  • or mostly represented by giving out adapter's model with it's corresponding specs (e.g. AC 14V BRC Series)


Proverbs 1:5
Let the wise listen and add to their learning, and let the discerning get guidance.



God bless Ü

Offline lolwat

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AP2 is no longer naked, here it is with a proper headshell.


Offline emil_murillo

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AP2 is no longer naked, here it is with a proper headshell.




nice good thinking sir!
  • how was the feasibility study going on that unit sir? seems feasible enough to me..
  • was it fully self-built or mostly outsourced ang gawa (more like "work in process").. e.g. allpcb, pcbgogo [click for the link] local upholstery, local cnc machine or laser printing, etc → "no need to tell your specific sources sir".. we would like to know lang how can we easily put a "Mark-Up Price" or will it be a challenge if you ever plan to get profit on that masterpiece sir..
ano nga pala yan sir nilagay mo sa ibaba ng control panel covering the tubes.. was it a fiberglass or acrylic?




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Offline lolwat

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nice good thinking sir!
  • how was the feasibility study going on that unit sir? seems feasible enough to me..
  • was it fully self-built or mostly outsourced ang gawa (more like "work in process").. e.g. allpcb, pcbgogo [click for the link] local upholstery, local cnc machine or laser printing, etc → "no need to tell your specific sources sir".. we would like to know lang how can we easily put a "Mark-Up Price" or will it be a challenge if you ever plan to get profit on that masterpiece sir..
ano nga pala yan sir nilagay mo sa ibaba ng control panel covering the tubes.. was it a fiberglass or acrylic?




1 Thessalonians 5:11
Therefore encourage one another and build up one another, just as you also are doing.



God bless Ü

Hi sir, the only thing I had to outsource was the front and rear face plates due to the need for straight holes for the EQ sliders, and square hole for the IEC receptacle. Everything else my dad and I built from scratch, with me taking care of the electronics, and my dad handling the woodwork. This is basically our version of Brian May's Red Special if you will :)

The clear panel is two layers of 3mm acrylic, and this was also implemented on my first amp build when we made a head shell for it. It's really cool as you see all the glowing things inside especially in the dark.