Guitar Build and Quality Facts - a help: Buying a Guitar

[pikapika2501]

Good day Co-PhilMusic Forumers:

If you're looking for a guitar? or is wondering what makes or whats the dependency of sound quality, what's are guitar stats? what building materials should i prefer? how does it contribute to sounds? More details and links below that could give us a headsUP

++if you have some links to share, comments, experience, please contribute as well

General:
- CAUTION: DO NOT PUT STEEL-STRINGS ON A CLASSIC GUITAR
- combined resonance of the strings, saddle, bridge and soundboard are, in turn, "amplified" in the soundbox or body
- guitars transmit the vibration of the string to the soundboard via the saddle and bridge
- design and quality of the strings, saddle, bridge and soundboard have a major impact on the sound
Body:
- Terminology: dreadnought or a jumbo - big body guitar
- Artist and folk, the smallest steel-string designs, and are about the same size as the classic
- Small bodies tend to favor midrange and treble and are easier to hold
- lead guitarists often favor smaller body guitars because of their balanced sound
- large bodies have more bass
- large guitar bodies, especially the dreadnought, are favored by bold strummers for their boom 'n twang
- The cutaway on the upper bout allows easy upper fret access but reduces volume and bass response by 10% to 20%.
SoundBoard:
- soundboard is the most vital component because it vibrates to create the guitar's sonic personality
- better guitars are made from solid spruce or cedar, soft woods that vibrate easily
- Veneer or ply soundboards are less resonate than solid wood and don't break in
- veneer is considerably stronger than solid wood
- Cedar soundboards take six months to a year to break in and sound relatively dark and robust.
- good choice for children or outdoor use
- spruce soundboards take several years to break in and offer more clarity than cedar, but less warmth
Back and Side:
- Rosewood is traditionally used for backs and sides
- Softer hardwoods such as nato, mahogany, walnut, koa and maple are excellent and are often less expensive than rosewood
- common on steel-string guitars
- classical designs are predominately rosewood
- Sapele is a variety of farmed mahogany
- density of the hardwood used in the back and sides also influences timbre
- rosewood, produce the darkest timbre
- Softer hardwoods, e.g., maple, koa, walnut or mahogany, have a brighter timbre
Neck and Fingerboard:
- Necks are primarily constructed of mahogany, but other hardwoods such as maple or nato may be used
- Fingerboards take a beating and thus are made from dense hardwoods such as ebony or rosewood
- Ebony is preferred due to its durability and stiffness but is normally found in guitars costing over $1000
- Hirade H5. Rosewood fingerboards are the norm in mid-priced
- Nato, veneer or soft woods are used in fingerboards of budget guitars
- ebony is preferred due to its durability and stiffness but is normally found in guitars costing over $1000
Combination
- Spruce and cedar sound boards are traditionally coupled with rosewood back and sides, yielding a balanced timbre.
- cedar top and soft hardwood back and sides--e.g., koa or walnut--yields a full-bodied voice with a touch of crispiness


Reference Links:
built and make details: https://emedia.leeward.hawaii.edu/frary/buying_an_acoustic_gtr.htm
timbre: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timbre
guitar in-depth history and details: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guitar

[binting]

try first before you buy. if you pic it up and it feels like magic you know what i mean gitarista ka din