May alam ba kayo na nag-sosoundproof ng mura?

[addriann303030]

Natatakot kasi ako pag i-DIY ko lang. Sabi kasi sakin dikitan ko ng foam saka ng Lalagyan ng itlog yung Band room. Baka sumablay e. 

Baka may kilala lang kayo. Tulong naman mga Bro, yung hinde masakit sa bulsa.

[mikep]

Pag sa soundproof, mahal talaga kasi you need layers of walling and ceiling to achieve the comparable effect of mass.  Otherwise, if not done right, sayang lang and ginastos mo.  Pag-iponan mo, and/or think about it seriously.  Do you really need a soundproofed room?  Gagamitin mo ba talaga yung soundproofed room na yun?  As I said, sayang ang pera.

FWIW

[skyjammer]

Pag sa soundproof, mahal talaga kasi you need layers of walling and ceiling to achieve the comparable effect of mass.  Otherwise, if not done right, sayang lang and ginastos mo.  Pag-iponan mo, and/or think about it seriously.  Do you really need a soundproofed room?  Gagamitin mo ba talaga yung soundproofed room na yun?  As I said, sayang ang pera.

FWIW

Mismo 

[skunkyfunk]

May alam ba kayong BMW na 2004 model na P50,000.00 lang?

Parang ganun ang tanong actually.


soundproofing =/= mura 

[BALDO]

May alam ba kayong BMW na 2004 model na P50,000.00 lang?

Parang ganun ang tanong actually.


soundproofing =/= mura 

MERON DITO 2008 pa..kaso $ nga lang..ay mali hehehe...

[abyssinianson]

egg crates do nothing more than hold eggs - they don't diffuse and they don't absorb so save your money and get something else denser. in fact, you would be better off using thick curtains or using house insulation mounted on a gobo-frame.

[LouieAzcona]

Natatakot kasi ako pag i-DIY ko lang. Sabi kasi sakin dikitan ko ng foam saka ng Lalagyan ng itlog yung Band room. Baka sumablay e. 

Baka may kilala lang kayo. Tulong naman mga Bro, yung hinde masakit sa bulsa.

boss... research pa. para mawala takot mo mag-DIY. dito lang sa philmusic madami ka matututuhan... plus google pa sa ibang sites. youtube madami din. kung sound proof talaga (yung hindi maririnig ung ingay in and out), mali yung sinabi nung kung sino man nagsabi sayo na kailangan ang egg crates chka foam. research ka pa. eventually marerealize mo na kahit regular na karpintero lang kaya magsoundproof - tight ang budget diba? or the cheapest way - DIY

[TT BOY]

bro try mo kasi sakin effective eh, although my ingay na naririnig sa labas pero hindi malakas as in parang radyo lang na vol2, hehehe... dalawang solid na pader pero hindi magkadikit, i mean my konting space sa gitna, tapos nilagyan ko ng gypsum board,..... sa pinto naman plyboard na makapal doublewall tpos my palaman na foam at saka nilagyan ko din ng gypsum board at stopper sa mga gilid, damihan mo lang ng bisagra kasi mabigat gypsum board eh......sa kisame naman kasi kahoy lang din...nilagyan kn lang ng gypsum board ulit.....ayun effective...para ka lang nakikinig ng radio station..sana makatulong... eto yata alam kong cheapest way para sa soundproof.....

[rednef]

Nice thread. Buti na lang may mga considerate na forumer na sumasagot ng ayos sa mga newbie.
Sana naman huwag natin pilosopohin o tawanan, bagkus ay alalayan.
Salamat po, marami talaga natututuhan dito, disregard na lang natin yung mga troll at mapang-hamak

[mikep]

Hindi ganuun lang ang pag-sound proof.  Like I aid, if you are not sure of what you are doing don't do it, because sayang ang pera.  TT Boy's way of doing it is like just reinforcing your walls with 1/2" gypsum and that's it.  One sheet of gypsum with air is just about STC 20, which is, if your SPL from the outside (or inside) is 100 dBA, the sound poenetrating is still 80 dBA, malakas pa rin.  If your sound from the outside is about 65 dBA or 70 dBA, which is typical ambient noise level, sound penetrating is 50 dBA, para ka lang nakikinig nga ng radyo. 

Here's the way to do it. (Bookmark this - this is a trade secret)

For walls, put metal studs spaced at 16" centers, about 2 inches from the cement wall.  Stuff the cavities - in between the metal studs - with 16 kgm glass fiber (huwag styropore - good only as a heat insulation, but not as effective for sound).  Put two pieces of 1/2" gypsum board.  Caulk the edges.  As much as possible, install the gyp rock in staggered fashion.  Caulk all edges or butt joints.  That would be your isolation wall.  Acoustics of the space is another issue.

For ceiling, put ceiling joists, normally metal, about 4" from existing ceiling.  Put 2" glass fiber in between the joists.  Put 2 layers of gyp rock.  Caulk joints and place gyps on staggered basis.  There is your ceiling isolation.

If you do not have an existing ceiling, build one.  Put 1 layer of gypsum on the furlins.  Better if you place a layer of 2" glass fiber on top of the gypsum board to remove resonances.

Now, compute how much you will spend on this simple design.  That is what you will need to simply soundproof your room.  Acoustics is another matter.  It is additional expense.

If you are not sure on how to do soundproofing, like what Louie said, research.  Go over the net.  There are a lot of ideas that you can adapt.  Just be ready with the expense.  Like I said, do it right - sayang ang pera.

PS.

Sa pintuan, kaya maraming bisagra kailangan, kasi mabigat ang gypsum para gawing palaman sa pintuan.  Ordinary door frame with glass fiber inside and faced with one later of 3/8" plywood on one side and 1/2" on the other side will do, pero mabigat din.  But it will not sag right away.  Gawing 5 a bisagra.  All the doors I do for studios I have designed and built are made this way.  What is important is, your jambs have to have rubber stripping to be effective.  That door would give you an STC of 28 to 30.

FWIW

[alien_inside]

That's the MASTER's advice. Start Saving... Huwag kang mabibigla. Mahal din ang delivery charge ng GWB...

[bodz]

easiest solution is to buy large thick blankets. suspend them from the ceiling and about 2 inches away from the wall. you can add a second layer an inch away from the other blanket.

hope that helps.

[mikep]

easiest solution is to buy large thick blankets. suspend them from the ceiling and about 2 inches away from the wall. you can add a second layer an inch away from the other blanket.

Curtains are okay if you want to absorb sound, especially high and a little bit of mid frequency (What about your lows which are problems in studio or music room situations?).  But if you are stopping sound from coming in or going out of the room (soundproofing), you need mass or a series of wall boards.  Aside from solid cement walls, a combination of absorbing materials as well as ordinary construction building materials such as gypsum, plywood, Hardiflex (cemboards), etc. are used in soundproofing.  Limp mass, normally plastic or rubberized material placed in between walls also helps.  Lead and asbestos used to be employed in earlier times but has become not only prohibitive but not healthy as well.

FWIW

[rednef]

^thanks a lot sir mike, very informative.
Sorry kung off-topic; di po ba dapat pre-planned na rin ang ventilation/aircondition system kapag nag-sound proofing? Kung fully sealed ang studio, paano ang circulation ng hangin? Ano po ang rule of thumb para sa ventilation?

[mikep]

di po ba dapat pre-planned na rin ang ventilation/aircondition system kapag nag-sound proofing? Kung fully sealed ang studio, paano ang circulation ng hangin? Ano po ang rule of thumb para sa ventilation?

Op cors, dapat nakadesign ang circulation mo ng hangin - main air conditioning system, otherwise, sayang lang and sound proofing mo.  For starters, if you will use the room only for practice purposes, a split type air con will be okay, maybe 1.5 HP to 2 HP, depende sa laki ng room.  Bakit split type?  Kasi, pag window type, di binutas mo rin yung si-nounproof mo.  You have to understand that even with a small 1 inch hole, that is equivalent to almost an open window.  Properties of sound makes it behave that way.  The better way of air conditioning a sound proofed room is to use acoustically treated air con ducts, both for supply and return.  You have to have bends and the innards of the ducts are to be treated with absorptive material, which complicates matters.  Furthermore, the duct sizes should be oversized and the airflow, especially for recording studios, should be about 350 cfm.  Then, you have to make sure you use a ductable air conditioning system.  Now, you add that to your cost.  Magkano na?  Kaya sabi ko mahal ang pag-sasasoundproof.  When you add it all together, it amounts to lots of money.  Kaya pag-ginawa mo na hindi tama, sayang ang pera.

FWIW

[alien_inside]

sir mike, pwede ba PVC PIPES for ducting? 4 - 6 in. dia...?

[peeves24]

Op cors, dapat nakadesign ang circulation mo ng hangin - main air conditioning system, otherwise, sayang lang and sound proofing mo.  For starters, if you will use the room only for practice purposes, a split type air con will be okay, maybe 1.5 HP to 2 HP, depende sa laki ng room.  Bakit split type?  Kasi, pag window type, di binutas mo rin yung si-nounproof mo.  You have to understand that even with a small 1 inch hole, that is equivalent to almost an open window.  Properties of sound makes it behave that way.  The better way of air conditioning a sound proofed room is to use acoustically treated air con ducts, both for supply and return.  You have to have bends and the innards of the ducts are to be treated with absorptive material, which complicates matters.  Furthermore, the duct sizes should be oversized and the airflow, especially for recording studios, should be about 350 cfm.  Then, you have to make sure you use a ductable air conditioning system.  Now, you add that to your cost.  Magkano na?  Kaya sabi ko mahal ang pag-sasasoundproof.  When you add it all together, it amounts to lots of money.  Kaya pag-ginawa mo na hindi tama, sayang ang pera.

FWIW

high volume, low pressure na buga? tama ba sir mike?

question about split type AC: hindi ba magkakaron ng flanking path yung send/return pipes nung blower papuntang condenser? if so, pano maiiwasan?

(haaay ang hirap ng nitty gritty details)

[alien_inside]

OT: Buti na lang may SIR MIKEP....

[KitC]

high volume, low pressure na buga? tama ba sir mike?

question about split type AC: hindi ba magkakaron ng flanking path yung send/return pipes nung blower papuntang condenser? if so, pano maiiwasan?

OT: Ahhh... reminds me of  my HVAC engineering design days.... had to take that subject twice! 

[mikep]

sir mike, pwede ba PVC PIPES for ducting? 4 - 6 in. dia...?

Too small.  You need a very low cfm.  4 - 6 inch will make your air flow rather fast. You'll have hissing sound.  Dapat you use ducts.  Slow supply, fast return.  To do this, you need to have an oversized duct, normally sometimes 50% more than required ducting.  Tom Hidley used compressed glass fiber as ducts, without the metal portion.  The innards though should have Velimat (black textile fabric) so that the fibers don'r get blown out and sucked in by the air con machine.

Another way of making the air flow slow is to introduce plenums before going out into the air diffuser.  Again, all the ducting hould be lined with insulation, normally 1" glass fiber.

FWIW

[mikep]

high volume, low pressure na buga? tama ba sir mike?

question about split type AC: hindi ba magkakaron ng flanking path yung send/return pipes nung blower papuntang condenser? if so, pano maiiwasan?

Tama, high volume, low pressure ang buga.  You want cold air to just drop from the ducts without being forced out, otherwise hissing sound.  You just want to feel the coldness of the air con, not the air when you are near the air con diffuser.

Normally, you would want an ductable air con system.  This machine would have provisions for a separate send and return paths.  But I have successfully ducted ordinary split type air cons.  What you do is to connect the supply duct into the supply grille mouth of the machine and connect your return duct into the return intake of the system.  Make sure there is not possibility of the return parets sucking the supply portion or you will have "flanking"; hindi lalamig and kuwarto mo.  Connect the ducts using flexible material like canvass so that there is discontinuity - para hindi magvibrate and ducts.  Otherwise, your whole air con system will be noisy.  Also, suspend your ducts with an acoustical hanger to avoid vibration problems.  You can make these hanger using ordinary duct or mahine hanger, but you have to provide a system of decoupling to cut vibrations.  Neoprene or rubber is used to decouple.  Lalo bang gumulo?  Lalo bang lumalaki ang gastos?  Ganuun talaga.  Like I mentioned, hindi biro and pag-soundproof at pag-gawa ng studio.  The net or any acoustical book like Everest's would give you answers on how to do this.  Just Google.

FWIW

[LouieAzcona]

sir san po nakakabili ng glass fiber saka rubberstripping yung kamukha nung nasa ref?

[bodz]

Curtains are okay if you want to absorb sound, especially high and a little bit of mid frequency (What about your lows which are problems in studio or music room situations?).  But if you are stopping sound from coming in or going out of the room (soundproofing), you need mass or a series of wall boards.  Aside from solid cement walls, a combination of absorbing materials as well as ordinary construction building materials such as gypsum, plywood, Hardiflex (cemboards), etc. are used in soundproofing.  Limp mass, normally plastic or rubberized material placed in between walls also helps.  Lead and asbestos used to be employed in earlier times but has become not only prohibitive but not healthy as well.

FWIW

problem with his situation is that the room, from what i understand, is already constructed and i think he doesn't have the luxury of constructing a new room or the finances to do so.

a solution to low frequencies is to build bass traps and put them in the corners where low freqs usually collect.  they can be made easily and cheaply.

[TT BOY]

sir san po nakakabili ng glass fiber saka rubberstripping yung kamukha nung nasa ref?

bro sa sm north ace hardware meron sila glass fiber 4x8 manipis lang sya 1.9k..meron din sila nung rubber na un, nkalimutan ko na kung magkano yung bili ko eh

[TT BOY]

my bad, hindi pla glass fiber un,, acrylic pla un