You can do the same with an outboard unit using fixed resistors and some toggle switches. (Be mindful of the wattage of the resistors.) But the rotary will allow you fine control over the attenuation you want. Mang raul sure does a fine job, and note how he took care of that troubled PTC fuse in the previous posts, jumper din!
Just in case someone is going the diy route, you'll need the target db's to compute resistor values. The way I wired my attenuator box is with three switches -12 & -24 L-pads, and a bridged-T for -36. Combining the 12 and 24 makes for a silent room practice amp, against the 36 it's the same volume but with less top end roll-off.
Usually -24db is where I want to be for fun use of cranked tones, but the -12 is also useful to shave off the shrillness at band volumes. I don't use the attenuator much, as I like to extend the tube lives a bit, but all the same it's fun to have as an additional control. The resistive elements will get hottest at the extreme attenuation ends, so I don't go there much.
Kung kaya yung tones ng pedal into clean setting, I prefer that, although mas masaya yung attenuated tones. Dami options, especially if you combine both methods.
Also, keep in mind Fletcher munson effect on our ears is in play, so at higher db's our perception of bass and treble changes. Lengthy food for thought post, I apologize, but I'm glad some folks are discovering the tonal possibilities with the cub's simplicity, once you get the reliability issues sorted out.
